I did not get much sleep. The whole night I was tossing and turning. Guys snored one after another as if they were having an orchestra performance of Beethoven's Symphony No. 9. I endeavored to grab some sleep and to fight against the long night. It was not at all easy to endure until about 6:30 when the first beam of daylight heralded the dawn had come.
After I packed up everything, I scratched my waist where there was a bit of itch. Oh my dear! A horrific disaster which I had been fearing finally happened - flea bites! The small red dots linked together could become a belt! I hurriedly applied some medical balm oil to release the discomfort. A year ago, I was traumatized by a plague of fleas at home. I prayed not to be bitten again in the following days.
Unfortunately, the weather was not pleasant at all. The whole forests was enveloped by dense mist and fog. We came with hope and continued our journey with hope. After taking a cheerful photo of us all in front of the cabin, we set off for our second day of hike. Today's trip started on altitude 3800m and ended at Lower Wanhuachi Campsite (下万花池牛场4250m). As we walked deeper into the mountain, the air felt cooler regardless of the trudge. Sprinkle always accompanied with a shaft of faint sunlight, which at times penetrating the coniferous forest, bringing us a hint of warmth. The lush primitive forest was decorated with innumerable usnea. The old man's beard fluttered along with the rustled coniferous trees in gentle breeze. It gave us a sense of paramount peace and tranquility.
On the way, we noticed a spectacular debris flow on the other side of the Baishui River. Becky suggested we leave our backpacks and get down to the river side to take some nice photos. I was not really keen to but why not. We were already here and most likely would not come back again. And, out of a bit of selfishness, I would gladly waste some time so that when Duoding caught up, I could spend more time with him along the way.
The milky white gravel rushed down through deep slopes just like waterfalls. Mountains were faintly discernible amidst clouds and fogs. The dale seemed like a mist generator, constantly blowing out droplets towards us. Pine trees huddled layers by layers. The color layering of the forests were remarkably vivid. The closer, the greener, the further, the dimmer. Everyone marveled at this masterpiece of nature.
And, as expected, when we were about to return, the familiar tinkling was approaching. It's Duoding! My heart melted and I suddenly burst into rapture. I deliberately repressed this unlawful excitement yet it proved ineffective. I only hoped that nobody discerned the titter on my face. Besides, the jingling grazing bell had brought me an immense sense of security during the whole journey. This was because I knew that whenever I heard the bell ring, he's also there.
Duoding was surprised that we were off the road. He warned us to be careful while awaiting us patiently by our backpacks. I smiled at him awkwardly when we got back on track. We snacked a bit and then continued with our journey. After another one hour trekking in the wood, we finally reached a grand pastureland - Zangbie Cattle Ranch (藏别牛场). The Baishui River meandered across the grassland like a giant sleeping python. The tips of the snow mountains were unfortunately blanketed by heavy fogs. Nevertheless, the beauty of these snow mountains were impossible to be overshadowed. Cold wind howled every now and then, blowing the droplets of sleet onto our faces. We hastily rushed into the shack for shelter. However, the gust of wind was of course the best accomplice, it assisted the sprinklings slipping into the hut through the cracks of the wooden roof. We had to eat some warm food to replenish our energy.
After the shower became lighter, we continued with our last hour hike to today's final campsite. Since the last bit was not really far so we agreed that our guides lead the mules with our heavy backpacks and wait for us at the destination. Duoding suggested that he could return to guide us after he dropped our baggage but we all protested against this unnecessary hassle. However, I selfishly wished to believe that he was saying this because of me.
Leaving the meadow, we entered the alpine shrub forest where the trail became rockier. Tiny snowflakes fluttered and melted in the water, disappearing in the rapids. Looking back, the cotton candy fog had already filled up the bottom of the valley, part of it crawling uphill, another part moving downward to refill the space. Light sleet at times gently brushed our faces, yet occasionally slapped us hard. Having crossed the shrub woods, the coppice woods were tall enough to shield us from the shower. The only thing that we needed to beware of was the slippery rocks.
I took it exceptionally slow for this last bit of the journey. Shortly before arriving the campsite, I finally got what I wished for - Duoding came back for us (Becky and Idea were behind me taking photos).
"Oh, you are here! The campsite is not far away. Go ahead and you will see the cabins. Hurry up! The rain has become heavier and you will be soaked."
"Nah, just light rain, not a big deal." I replied.
"Don't be silly! You will catch cold. No fun to become sick on the highland. Hurry to the cabin and warm yourself a little bit. I am going to look for Becky and Idea."
"I go with you."
"Ah? Why do you want to walk more? " He seemed confused.
"I am not tired and it's still early. I don't like having nothing to do in the shack." I lied.
"Then you wait for me here. I go to look for the couple." He pressed his umbrella on me.
"No, I go with you." I refused to take the umbrella and repeated firmly. The rain pattered on my face. Not sure was it the rain or the tear that blurred my vision. Duoding paused and stared into my eager eyes in bewilderment. He seemed to be a fledgling in dealing with affection. Not far away from us came the giggles from Becky and Idea. Duoding swiftly ran towards them, informed them the right direction to the campsite and hurriedly came back to me. I proposed that we could have a short walk in the forest for it's still early. Duoding vetoed my proposal and the excuse was the rain. I became discouraged so I kept myself an arm's length from him, silently followed him to the cabin.
It was cloudy by the time we arrived Xia Wanhuachi Campsite (下万花池营地). Guys set up their shooting equipment, praying for good weather, hoping to capture the beauty of Xianuo Duoji (夏诺多吉, 5951.3m). Perhaps God had received the messages from our devout prayers. Suddenly, clouds and mist dissipated, the blue sky was clear enough for us to appreciate the true appearance of Mount Xianuo Duoji. Guys were excitingly taking videos and photos. I struggled to conceal my sadness so I avoided confronting Duoling but idled about in other cabins. Whenever he came out from the shack I got in and vice versa until dinner time.
As soon as I saw his face, I surrendered. I resented Duoding for his indifference but what more I could ask for? Nothing! Absolutely nothing! Dahe experienced a bit of high altitude sickness so he rested early. We sat down for a chat while Brother Han made us some herbal tea for cold prevention. Sitting around with my mates, I suddenly realized that there was a huge gap between our guides and us. We did not belong to the same world. They showed no concern to our conversation. For them, they might merely be interested in making money from us, but not in the people themselves or the outer society. This thought saddened me even more.
That night, I slept by the door next to Becky. The rain splashed onto the cabin roof and wild wind at times intruded through the wooden door cracks. At about midnight, I felt that my right half of the body was losing temperature. So I opened and checked my sleeping bag, only to find that it was dampened by rain dripping down from the roof. I woke Becky and appreciated that she helped me to move my stuff to the other side of of the cabin where there supposed to be no leaking. Yet this proved to be a sleepless night since a few times the door was blown open (I was frightened that it might be a yak) and no one cared to close it. I had to move several heavy backpacks to block the door in case it opened again.
Both guides did not notice what had happened. My grudge towards Duoding had grown after that tonight.
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