Shibao Mountain - Shaxi (沙溪石宝山)

Aug, 22, 2022, Cloudy

 

Normal Route -  Take the minibus from the main entrance of Shaixi all the way to the East Gate (东门), when done with Haiyun Ju(海云居) and Baoxiang Temple areas (宝相寺), take the tourist bus down to the Lion Gate(狮子关) and Shizhong Temple(石钟寺), hike from Shizong Temple to Shadengqing(沙登箐) then back to Shaxi (≈5km).

      A cloudy day, best for hiking. I set off from Shaxi at about 9am, soon arrived Shaping village(沙坪村). Followed this sign and then walked to the end of the perfect cement paveway. Tourist road map and signs signified the entrance(exit) of Shibao Mt..  

 

 

 

      There were a few grottoes scattering around Shadengqing. Unfortunately, most temples in this area were closed. 

      

      Hiked up to the distanced temple, which of course was also closed, and then headed a bit further up, now I reached the peak of SDQ. From here, one can enjoy a fantastic panoramic view of the whole Shaxi village. I happily took a few photos but didn't realze that soon I would enter a disastrous hike to Shizhong Temple. 

 

      Attempting to explore the most of Shibao Mt., I did not hesitate a second to turn to the stone steps when I saw the arrow pointing left to Shizhong Temple. Initially, I thought it would be a short walk to another temple. After about 20 mins, I felt a bit worried. I kept texting one of my friends back in GZ to make sure that someone knew I was in the middle of nowhere. With no one in sight, only the litters along the way reassured me that I had not taken a wrong path. 

 

 

      After walking almost 45mins, my head was clouded with fustration when I saw an abandoned house covered with graffiti (in Chinese) like "Go back! Another 15km!" and "Too far!" 

 

      Luckily, I was not deceived by those evil human spirits, the Shizhong Temple was right in front of the deserted fountain, only 2 mins' walk from the "ghost house". After a short chat with the local guard and a group of tourist, I paid 22RMB (40 something with tourist bus from the east gate) for the ticket and had a quick glance of every grottoes that was not under construction. The Shizhong Temple would be some sort of cultural exploration for those who are interested in Nanzhao (南诏) culture and history. The Shizhong Temple is pretty small. In less than 15 mins, I started to head to the Lion Gate.  

 

 

      

      The Lion Gate Grottoes section was not so far away from Shizong Temple. Albeit smaller in size and scale, the Lion Gate area were more interesting to me.

      Finishing up the Lion Gate, It would be another 7.2km to Baoxiang Temple, all on the driving road. After crossing the toll gate (Shilong village to the left) and a map sign, the Baoxiang Temple was only 10 mins walk away. I reached BXT at about 14:00. There were a few food stalls in front of the entrance of the BXT gate. I went straight up since I still have food and water with me in the backpack.

       Wild monkeys hung around along the steps, my guest house owner told me that the monkeys would "rob" tourists so I picked up a tree stick earlier in the forest. Tourists can also pick up a wooden stick by the entrance, heard that it's free.

      I was going to spend more time touring around the BXT. When I realized that there was a Jinding Temple on top of the peak, I did not hesitate to go straight up for it. It took me about 30mins to walk up there. I strongly recommend going up to JDT. The temples might not be as huge and stunning as the BXT but the view on top of the mountain was magnificent!

      

      The buddhist statues in the front gate of the JDT were covered with red cloths. A sudden dog bark frightened me for a sec but luckily it was tied up. I was surprised to see there were quite some old local guys and ladies inside the yard. They stared me for a while then continued with their work, chatting and laughing. 

      I walked around and then up to the main temple where there were a few people sitting by the entrance. I sat down and "consulted" with one old guy about the history of the temple. He told me that JDT was built in late Ming dynasty but since then it was ruined by mountain fire several times. Governments and local people helped to rebuild the temple. I asked him whether all the people live here. He said they came occasionally for a few days for traditional activities (not necessarily religious), only 1 or 2 people would stay for longer time. 

      While walking around, I asked one lady what they were making with the colourful papers. She said they were preparing for the coming Gewuhui ( 歌舞会, singing and dacing) event which would last for at least 3 days. She then invited me to stay over and participate in their traditional activity. I would love to join but not today since I did not anticipate a stayover. A group of family members came when I prepared to leave, they seemed to plan on staying. As I walked out the temple, they were enjoying their meals (10RMB/person, written on the wall).

 

       There was a nunnery straight down along the path against the main entrance. It was closed so I only took photos from above. I had been thinking for quite a while whether I should hike back or take the minivan because I needed to be hurry if I wanted to get back to Shaxi before dark. My stomach was complaining and I also did not wish to rush, so I decided to sit down, eat some bread and enjoy the beautiful sceneries on top of the world!

      I was glad that I finally made this hard decision so I hurrily returned to the main road. Only a few steps away from the best spot, an unwanted lady came unexpectedly and took my place. I felt a bit disapointed but it was fine, I could sit somewhere else. I took out my bread and asked whether she would like one. She declined and instead passed me a bear. I thanked her while settling myself next to her. And of course I would start a conversation.

      "Are you also coming for the event?" I asked.

      "No. I came to fly my birds." She answered.

      "Fly your birds?" I was s bit surprised. 

      "Yes."

      "How do you fly your birds?" 

She did not answer.

      "Why do you fly birds?"

      "Sell them for money. Better deal for more birds. I lost some birds the other day so I came to find them."

      "How many birds went missing?"

      "48 in totoal and 9 missing."

      "How do you find your birds?" 

She did not answer.

      "Are you sure you can find your birds?" I was so very curious. Would escaped birds really return?

      "Yes!" She answered with great certainty.

      Before she left, she also told me that I could get down to the nearest village from the other side of the road. I thanked her for the input but didn't take the advice since I wanted to see a bit more of the BXT. We said goodbye as she walked up to search for her birds.

      When I got back down to BXT, it was almost 17:00. Thinking that I have seen the best part of the area, I quickly walked through the two big buddhas then headed down to the entrance. I bought a bottle of water and asked the lady how I could get to the east gate. She told me that it would cost 5RMB to take the tourist bus back, but if they don't check the bus ticket I could take a free ride. After thanking the lady, I hurried to the bus and sucessfully reach the east gate without causing much attention, even though I was the only passenger. Though I missed Haiyun Temple, I did not think it would be a great regret. 

      It took me another 20 mins to walk from the east gate to the main road (what they called Chakou, 岔口) . I was lucky enough not having needed to wait for long. As soon as I reached the main road, I stoped a passing minivan then headed back to Shaxi.